Our Approach – Fabric

SPINNING AND WEAVING FOR THE FREEDOM TO CREATE.

The ability to weave our own fabric means that we can determine and optimize every detail — from the fineness of the yarn, to the density of the weave, to the saturation and durability of the color. This ensures the best possible fabric for each shirt that we create. While most brands leave these decisions to others by purchasing off-the-shelf fabrics, we are able to leverage decades of knowledge in our own mills to continually innovate and create shirts in a completely unique way.

THE ART & SCIENCE OF WEAVING

The process of weaving fabric includes a multitude of variables that combine to affect the look, hand feel, fit, and quality of the final garment. At PYE, we have carefully studied each step—yarn spinning, dyeing, density, weaving and finishing—to develop the ideal process for creating the perfect shirt.

YARN SPINNING

Fabric is created from yarn, and at PYE we spin our own. Spinning our own yarn means that we can develop non-commodity items that others do not have access to, which allows us to distinguish and refine our fine fabrics optimally for our garments. To make our dress shirts, we use the best extra long staple cotton available to create high-count yarn, which is spun multi-ply to create the strongest and finest fabrics possible.

YARN DYEING

To create high quality colors and patterns, we always dye the yarn before weaving it into fabric. This process enables more saturated and durable colors that maintain their pigment as they are worn and washed. Combined with our high count yarns, this further ensures that the patterns woven are clear and distinct, lasting over time.

DENSITY

Fabric density is a key element in the determination of the ultimate structure, look and feel of the final garment. If the density is too low, the fabric can be too flimsy and wear out easily. If it is too high, the fabric may wrinkle easily or not breathe well. Our years of experience in shirt making has enabled us to determine the optimal density based on a broad range of fabrics with varying yarn combinations.

WEAVE

There are many ways to weave, which result in the fabric structures that you might know, such as poplin or oxford to name a few. The weaving method, which includes density, the selection of yarns, and finally the type of weave used ultimately determine the structure, pattern and feel of the fabric, which is a major part of how a shirt looks and feels.

FINISHING

After weaving, a range of finishing techniques are used to remove imperfections, achieve a desired hand feel, and in some cases add functionality, as is done in wrinkle-free fabric. An important part of the finishing process allows for the stabilization of the fabric, which ensures that the final shirt maintains its structure and doesn't shrink or warp over time.

QUALITY ASSURANCE

We always check our fabric before it leaves our mills. We test for attributes including defects, tear strength, shrinkage, color retention and hand feel to ensure that the shirts made from our fabric will be beautiful and durable, maintaining its desired quality as you wash and wear it.

PYE'S FAVOURITE FABRICATIONS

80/2 Universal Pinpoint Oxford

A classic 2x1 oxford weave alongside its best suited partner, the 80/2 yarn, finished with performance technology

FINENESS

EASE

WEIGHT

140/2 Definitive Herringbone Twill

An ultra soft high count subtle herringbone pattern woven with a natural sheen

FINENESS

EASE

WEIGHT

100/2 Classic Heather Poplin

Fibre dyed fine yarns that create a multi-dimensional depth within a simple poplin weave

FINENESS

EASE

WEIGHT

120/2 Classic Poplin

With a high count yarn extremely densely woven for structure and opacity to balance the fine yarns and simple weave

FINENESS

EASE

WEIGHT

100/2 Universal Twill

Performance technology and a high count diagonal 2x1 twill for exceptional functional luxury

FINENESS

EASE

WEIGHT

Cotton Silk Definitive Twill

With cotton and silk spun together in the yarn to combine the softness, structure, and luminosity of these two distinctive materials

FINENESS

EASE

WEIGHT

300/3 Infinity Twill

A technical feat, using three 300 count yarns twisted upon themselves to create the finest shirting fabric conceivable

FINENESS

EASE

WEIGHT

PYE'S FAVOURITE FABRICATIONS

1 / 7

300/3 Infinity Twill

A technical feat, using three 300 count yarns twisted upon themselves to create the finest shirting fabric conceivable

FINENESS

EASE

WEIGHT

2 / 7

Cotton Silk Definitive Twill

With cotton and silk spun together in the yarn to combine the softness, structure, and luminosity of these two distinctive materials

FINENESS

EASE

WEIGHT

3 / 7

100/2 Universal Twill

Performance technology and a high count diagonal 2x1 twill for exceptional functional luxury

FINENESS

EASE

WEIGHT

4 / 7

120/2 Classic Poplin

With a high count yarn extremely densely woven for structure and opacity to balance the fine yarns and simple weave

FINENESS

EASE

WEIGHT

5 / 7

100/2 Classic Heather Poplin

Fibre dyed fine yarns that create a multi-dimensional depth within a simple poplin weave

FINENESS

EASE

WEIGHT

6 / 7

140/2 Definitive Herringbone Twill

An ultra soft high count subtle herringbone pattern woven with a natural sheen

FINENESS

EASE

WEIGHT

7 / 7

80/2 Universal Pinpoint Oxford

A classic 2x1 oxford weave alongside its best suited partner, the 80/2 yarn, finished with performance technology

FINENESS

EASE

WEIGHT

OUR PROCESS

While manufacturing textiles and fabrics requires the use of water, chemicals and energy, we are committed to doing this in a sustainable way. We never use hazardous chemicals and are constantly striving to innovate and improve our processes to reduce the use of resources. We are also careful to treat all waste we produce in order to ensure that what we put back into the world is safe.